Your bike has an annual test and, in your own interest, you will have to help it “pass”. And do not take the ITV as a threat, rather it is a way of guaranteeing that your motorcycle is safe .
Yes, the usual thing is that we all take the ITV as a burden that we have to put up with once a year. And we usually see it as those exams for bad students, something that you have to pass anyway, even if you have to cheat. This is the wrong approach: I think we would all like to know that we are riding in a vehicle that could be dangerous or that it is going to fail, before something happens. And that, precisely, is what the ITV is really worth.
It is true that they get “heavy”, that sometimes it seems to us that there are things that are looking at us (a light that fails, an exhaust that makes a lot of noise) that are not so serious (or so it seems to us) and that we can suppose inconvenience, expense and inconvenience. But if we eliminate these reasons for failure previously and we go to the ITV suitably prepared, we can go with the idea that possible real and serious failures will be detected. Thus, the ITV becomes an interesting test that will give us the assurance that our motorcycle is in good condition.
Before you go, of course, take a look: check and make sure that you are not going to “throw” you for some “bullshit” that you could have solved before. A blown bulb can make you go twice, it’s easy to fix, and checking them beforehand will prevent you from going twice.
To begin with, and so that there are no doubts, motorcycles, like cars, undergo the ITV in the 4th year from their first registration and then every two (after ten years, also every two years, not every year as in Cars). When you pass it, just like in the car, they will put a stamp on the technical sheet with the date you have to return and they will give you a sticker to put on the motorcycle. It is just as mandatory as in the car, but the truth is that if you usually turn a “blind eye” in the case of the car, much more with motorcycles and few people hit them. Of course, keep it with the “docu” of the motorcycle, just in case.
Index of contents
How to pass the ITV to the motorcycle or scooter
The first thing they look at when you arrive at the ITV line is that the documentation is correct. In some autonomous communities (not all) they will require you in the office, before accessing the line, that you have the insurance in force. Make sure if this is the case beforehand and if they are going to require the insurance, check that it is in force and that you have proof that it is. Once on the line, the inspector checks that the chassis number matches in the documentation and on the chassis itself and will make a copy of the chassis.
On some scooters it is quite hidden; Normally, the inspector will know how to find it if your motorcycle is a model with a lot of diffusion, but it will not hurt if you know how to locate that number before going, lest the inspector does not know your model and it is difficult for him to locate it. And by the way, while you’re at it, if it’s the first ITV you’ve passed, check the chassis number: you don’t know how many errors there are, people who ride a motorcycle that isn’t “theirs” because, for example, the dealer made a mistake in keying in the license plates.
In this part, they also check the tires, that the measurements coincide with those of homologation, which are indicated in the technical sheet. Some motorcycles come with several approved sizes (enduro KTMs, for example, usually also have SM wheels approved); Check that the ones you have mounted match or if not, that they are at least equivalent. You can consult this previously in an ITV, in a tire workshop or even on the internet. Important: they check not only the measurement, but also load and speed indices. And of course they will see that you have enough tread left, that is, that the signs of wear are no longer showing between the tread of the wheel.
#3 Lights and mirrors
There is little mystery about this part of the test: modern motorcycles have to have a horn, position lights, turn signals, short, long, brake light and two mirrors. The brake light must work when you touch one of the two controls and the short and long must have a certain height. This is easy to check, even without having the corresponding device: put the motorcycle about 5 meters, straight, behind a car. The short ones must have a beam that illuminates the license plate of the car, a little above, but not “getting” through the rear window of the car. If so, they go high. If they stay below the plate, turn the headlight up. Normally it is easy to do and in the owner’s book he explains how to regulate them. The long ones can go higher, but do not go “looking for birds” in the sky.
Behind remember that you have to carry lighting of the license plate and a reflector. It is the mandatory rear reflector and, like the lights, it must be approved: if you have changed the license plate holder, remember it.
#4 Engine and exhaust
Exhausts, screens, turn signal lights, mirrors and other parts are usually subject to “tuning” on many motorcycles. You can change them, if you want, but to avoid problems with the ITV they must be approved. If so, they usually have an engraved “seal” which means that they have passed the relevant procedures to be used on the street. When you buy them or mount them, the workshop usually gives them to you with a certificate from the manufacturer that guarantees this approval. In the mirrors or turn signals, the approval can come in the box itself.
Save that certificate so that in case of doubt you can display it during the review. And if you are not sure that this approval is valid for Europe or, directly, it is not, keep the original parts. When you mount the new ones, keep in mind that, first, you may have to change them to pass the ITV and second, that a routine check on the road may cause problems due to non-approved parts.
There should be no fluid leaks, there can be no loose parts and it should start normally, which is logical. It must also stop with the systems provided for it, not stalling or by “rare” systems (putting first gear and releasing the clutch with the brakes, for example). But the most delicate thing is the exhaust gas test. All engines are approved with a certain level of polluting emissions. Within a few margins of error, your motorcycle must remain at that level of contamination. It is impossible to measure “by eye”, so if you want to have it previously measured you will have to go through a workshop. Yes, you can check that consumption is what it should be: if it is higher than usual, it may be a symptom of poor carburetion and, therefore, it may not pass this test.
The exhaust is usually a delicate point on many motorcycles: it is one of the parts that many people change immediately, in search of better performance or simply for aesthetics or fashion. If the new exhaust is approved and well assembled, you won’t have any problems. If this is not the case, you will have all of them: they will “throw” you because the exhaust is not approved (it must have the approval seal engraved) and, if that happens to them, due to excessive noise. If you change the exhaust, keep the stock one, which will be useful for these things.
Apart from what has already been mentioned that can happen to you by wearing a non-approved exhaust, the noise, like the smoke, must be within approval margins. These margins come on the motorcycle’s approval plate and in the ITV they also have them in a book that compiles them by brand and model. It is measured in decibels at a certain level of engine rpm.
They place the motorcycle at a predetermined point, normally on a special surface that prevents the noise of the stand on the ground and they put a sound level meter on a special support that measures the legal distance at which it must be measured. If the exhaust is in good condition, there will be no problems. If you wear it loose, chopped or, in some cases, with the interior fiber burned (it can be changed), it will give a value higher than acceptable. Check that fiber; If your exhaust is one of those that have it (mopeds and country bikes, normally, although not all), check that the supports and other nearby screws are tight and do not vibrate so as not to make noise. And check that nothing on the bike vibrates in this test: vibration (from anywhere) makes noise and will put you in trouble:
#6 Brakes and cycle part
In the cycle part of the motorcycle, in addition to ensuring that the handlebars, controls and others are well tightened, in their normal position and that they function correctly, they will check that the suspensions work correctly and do not have oil leaks. Logically, there can be no chassis breaks or anything similar, although this is serious enough for you to know about it and not even risk going to the ITV with the motorcycle running. Be careful with the tension of the chain: it has to be fatal for them to throw you for it, but if it is loose, they can give you a failure and, although it is not enough for the ITV to be unfavorable, if you have another couple of “mistakes”… outside.
The brake test is usually another critical point, although the truth is that with the motorcycle or scooter it is not like the car: in the car, with a brake distributor and a single pedal, a malfunction of the brake on one wheel can happen unnoticed, but on the bike it is much more noticeable. If it brakes well, you’ll pass. If not, check pads and, if applicable, drum cable tension. By the way, in some ITV it is the inspector who gets on the motorcycle and passes the test; in others not and you have an obligation to do it yourself.
#7 Bodywork and other points
The body also enters the review, as usual. There can be no serious damage, you can’t go without fins, or with half of the fairing “dangling” or held with duct tape. But apart from this, they don’t usually get involved in further investigations, such as whether you have another screen or you have removed (and left well) part of the fairing. But with the law in hand, a different or tinted screen can be “illegal”, so make sure that if you change the screen the new one is approved or, as in the case of the exhaust, keep the original “just in case” ». By the way, try to keep the bike clean and presentable: inspectors are human and, although they try to be objective, a “good looking” and well-kept bike has a better chance of earning their “leniency” in the face of a small failure.
Odometer, rev counter and other standard equipment of the frame must work (and more so the speedometer). Of course, also the witnesses, although these are not easy to verify. There is no “specific” test for them, but keep in mind that the rev counter is seen as soon as they start it and when they check the brakes they will see if the odometer works.
Of course, with dirt bikes there is no problem: they cannot be registered directly and therefore they cannot circulate on the street, so they also save the ITV. Trail bikes and other motorcycles that are usually used on the street do not pose much of a problem, but enduro motorcycles that are used in the countryside do tend to be more problematic: turn signals, mirrors and other elements that can get caught on branches or break at the slightest drop. And in the ITV, as approved motorcycles that they are, they will require you to wear them. If you have bought the motorcycle second-hand and it does not have these elements, keep in mind that you will have to buy and assemble them. You have flasher kits for them that make temporary installation easy. Odometer, exhaust, registration plate, reflectors, mirrors and others, as in other motorcycles,
For some years, the ITV is also mandatory for mopeds. In this case, it will happen for the first time three years after the first registration and, in addition to checking the brakes, documentation and others as in any motorcycle, they are especially careful when it comes to verifying that there are no modifications that affect the benefits. For this, a test that is not done in other vehicles is the maximum speed. As you know, mopeds are limited by law to 45 km/h. Since the ITV does not want to argue with you, they allow a “major” error and accept up to 62 km/h in automatic vehicles and 64 km/h with gearbox. They check it on a roller, which makes the test very “optimistic”: there is no aerodynamic resistance and don’t be surprised that if your motorcycle, on the road, “does” a real 60 km/h,
The point is that any current moped far exceeds those speeds without “tricking” too much. The simple fact of “unlimiting” it will already make it run more. The truth is that legally you should not do it, since it is a “trick” or a significant modification of the technical characteristics with which it was approved. To pass the ITV, if it is like this, you will have to limit it again so that it does not exceed that speed. His thing would be to reassemble what has been disassembled in the “delimitation”, or that would be legal. But the truth (and what is being done) is to shorten developments, limit ignition or throttle travel (or several of these things together) to ensure that the motorcycle does not exceed that legal speed.
Periodicity to pass the ITV to the motorcycle or scooter
Private motorcycles, quadricycles and quads
Less than 3 years
More than 3 years
|Private motorcycles, quadricycles and quads|
Less than 4 years
More than 4 years